NAVIGATION

A Fine Temple Ring Set with a Rough Garnet and Raised, Lobed Bezel
Resembling a Temple Tower or Lotus Calyx
Gold, garnet
Kingdom of Champa
12th - 14th century AD

Size: 57 (EU) P 1/2 (UK) 7 3/4 (US)
Weight: 13.9 grams

The gold ring, with its high, ribbed, calyx-like bezel clasping a tumbled garnet, belongs to the ‘temple ring’ tradition of the Champa peoples, in present-day southern Vietnam. Enriched by maritime trade linking India, China, and the Indonesian archipelago, Cham elites cultivated a court style that fused Indic iconography and Khmer architectural forms with local taste. The present ring’s stepped, lobed collet punctuated by pellet ornament and tight volute shoulders typifies that synthesis. Its rounded, weighty band rises to support the bezel like a miniature tower or lotus, evoking sanctuary architecture and floral abundance.   
     Close parallels include two rings sold at Sotheby’s: a gold-alloy and cabochon red gem repoussé ring (lot 222, A Scholarly Journey: The Tuyet Nguyet and Stephen Markbreiter collection, 26 October 2021) and a solid-gold and macle stone ring with floral bezel (lot 506, Magnificent Lustre: Southeast Asian Gold Jewellery and Ornaments from an Asian Private collection, 10 October 2022). 
Hammered and cast elements converge in a chased finish, and the tumbled garnet reflects Indian ‘gem traffic’ circulating through Cham ports and goldsmiths’ workshops. Such rings likely served as emblems of rank or pious donation, their red stones symbolising auspicious power and prosperity within the maritime world of medieval Champa.

Ex G. Theuermann collection, Germany
Ex Private collection